Tidsskriftet Kulturstudier
Tidsskriftet Kulturstudier

Tidsskriftet

Fænomener som urbanisering, industrielt landbrug og skarpt opdelte by- og landzoner betyder, at de fleste møder mellem landbrugsdyr og mennesker i dagens Danmark finder sted ved middagsbordet, når mennesker spiser kød. Men hvad betyder det for den måde, vi som forbrugere forholder os til kødet på, at vi og dyrene er flyttet fra hinanden? Og hvilken betydning har det for den måde, dyret og kødet bliver gjort på undervejs fra mark til måltid?

Med udgangspunkt i et større feltarbejde om dyret og kødets vej fra mark til måltid analyserer artiklen med nedslag i feltbesøg på godset Mineslund, i supermarkedskæden Irma og hos en kødelskende familie, hvordan dyret bliver gjort i sammenhænge, hvor netop det, at dyret i kødet er nærværende, når forbrugerne sætter tænderne i det, bliver betragtet som et kvalitetsstempel. En central pointe er, at dyret i kødet er en dynamisk tilsynekomst, der forandres alt afhængig af de konkrete relationer og situationer dyret og kødet indgår i.

English summary

The taste of cow life with a view

It is frequently claimed that the only way for modern people to justify eating meat is by alienating themselves from the animals that the meat comes from, so that the meat is eaten as a high-protein ’ingredient’ rather than as an ’animal’. This article argues, however that alienation from the animal is supplemented by a number of practices where meat is eaten as an animal and precisely therefore leaves consumers with a good taste in the mouth. In order to eat meat as animal, the animal in the meat must be made present, and the article shows how presence is created as a number of heterogeneous socio-material actors do the animal in the meat in specific situations. With a point of departure in extensive fieldwork concerning the animal and the progress of the meat from farm to fork, four versions of animals are presented. Each one seeks in its own way to address consumers’ lack of first-hand experience with living animals by recreating the connection between animals and human beings. These four versions present four different ideas about how the animal that is present in the meat can be done, and emphasizes that it is the specific actors involved in practising the animal that define which animal can emerge. The animal that is present in the meat is consequently a multiple animal that appears, is negotiated and changed depending on the concrete practice it is part of and on the actors involved.